Story of Zamalek

Story of Zamalek

Zamalek neighborhood...
Zamalek Island...
Or the Island as it is called,

The beautiful and charming Nile Island that is located in the heart of Cairo.
Its total area is nearly 600 feddans and is situated in the Nile River between Cairo governorate to the east and Giza governorate to the west. It is bordered to the south by Al-Rawdah Island and has a population of 16,534 (according to the 2006 census).

zamalek
  1. Central Island or Arwa

  2. Halima Island

  3. Boulaq Island

  4. Greater Boulaq Island or Al-Qaratiyya Island

  5. Al Gezira (The Island)

  6. Zamalek Island

Zamalek Island has been given many names throughout the ages; at the beginning of its appearance (after 700 AH) it was named Arwa or the Central Island because of its location between the upscale neighborhood of Boulaq and Al-Rawdah Island. It was also known by Halima Island at another time (747 AH). Both Arwa and Halima Islands were joined together and were named Boulaq Island. Its name was also recorded as the Greater Boulaq Island, named after its opposing neighborhood, or Al-Qaratiyya Island on the maps drawn by the French during the French campaign against Egypt (1801-1798). During the reign of Muhammad Ali (1848-1805) it was known by Boulaq Island. Later, during the reign of Khedive Ismail (1863-1879), it was known by Al Gezira (Island in English) until it ended up with the name Zamalek Island that exists to this day.

Historians have disagreed on the meaning of the word Zamalek, as it was stated that the name Zamalek is a plural noun derived from the Albanian term ‘Zemlik’, which means the village consisting of primitive bamboo huts.
While others mentioned that it may be derived from the phrase "land holder," meaning "possessing assets," as a reference to the high social standing of its residents.

Geographical Changes

The Emergence of Arwa

Water has receded from the Central Island or, as it was called, Arwa Island after the year 700 AH. It was located between Al-Rawdah and Boulaq.

About the island, Al-Maqrizi said,

"This island is known as the Central Island because it is situated between al-Rawdah and Boulaq, and between the riverbanks of Cairo and Giza. The water did not recede from it until the year seven hundred."

Map source: Geographic Society Digital collection in CULTNAT-BibAlex

The Emergence of Halima

Halima Island appeared after Arwa Island and was located between the area of Boulaq and the Central Island. At that time, the island used to appear above the surface of the Nile during the low water season (drought) and disappear with the flooding of the Nile, thus resulting in the seasonal use of the island. It first appeared in the Nile River in the eighth century AH (747 AH), approximately in the year (1345-1356 AD), in the Mamluk era during the reign of Sultan Al-Kamil Shaban bin Al-Nasser Muhammad bin Qalawun.
About the location and history of Halima Island Al-Maqrizi said,

“This island emerged in the year 747 AH / 1346 AD between Boulaq and the Central Island and was named by the public “Halima” ”.

Map source: Geographic Society Digital collection in CULTNAT-BibAlex

The Joining of the Two Islands of Arwa and Halima

Both Arwa and Halima Islands were joined together as a consequence of the sedimentation process of the Nile. They were named Boulaq Island, after the upscale Boulaq neighborhood at that time during the Ottoman era, where Boulaq was Cairo’s river port at the time and was a large island that was attached to the eastern bank of the Nile and is currently the area of Boulaq Abul-Ela.
Its southern part is now known as Al-Gezira and the northern part as Zamalek.

Map source: Geographic Society Digital collection in CULTNAT-BibAlex

The Appearance of Four Islands on the Map of the French Campaign

The appearance of four new islands on the map of the French Campaign. The French Campaign scholars drew up a map of Cairo in the year 1800 AD that showed four islands (Lazaret - Boulaq – the two Islands of Mustafa Agha)

Map source: Geographic Society Digital collection in CULTNAT-BibAlex

The Joining of the Four Islands

It is said that these four islands were joined together to form the current island.
In 1805, when Muhammad Ali Pasha came to power, the Zamalek Island was still seasonal; it was appearing and disappearing with the occurrence of the Nile flood. By the year 1830 AD, it had become a permanent island and only then, that Muhammad Ali Pasha ordered the construction of his palace on it.

Map source: Geographic Society Digital collection in CULTNAT-BibAlex

The Change of the Nile River Course

With Khedive Ismail accession to power (1863-1879), he planned for huge urban projects to develop the capital. The development of Zamalek Island was part of his plan, which also included the changing of the original course of the Nile River that had two branches at the time, one of which goes west and the other one is the current branch. The changes began in 1863 by erecting a concrete barrier near the entrance of Abbas Bridge to act as a buffer to change the direction of the floodwater to head east towards the city of Cairo. A berm was built along its side to block part of the entrance of the old stream. Another concrete barrier was erected at the current site of Shepheard Hotel to change the direction of the Nile once again to return to its original course at Imbaba and Boulaq.

Map source: Geographic Society Digital collection in CULTNAT-BibAlex

Changes in the Shape of the Island

The change in the flood level led to the diversion of the water stream that resulted in the digging of the current course of the Nile.
This diversion resulted in the increased flow of the Nile water to the southern part of the island that is close to Al- Rawdah Island, hence causing its erosion. The eastern bank of the island facing Boulaq had eroded as well and the current drifted it north the island, thus causing an increase in its length towards the north, as the northern border of the island used to end at 26th of July Street before the diversion of the Nile course. The western region of the old main course, from which water receded, left behind wide lands that were later filled in, while its southern part transformed into "Orman" (Orman Park).
It is worth noting that before the construction of the Aswan Dam and its heightening (1899-1926), the level of the Nile River was variable throughout the year. This affected the stability of the borders of the island, as it was subject to erosions at times and depositions at other times. This led people to avoid building near the edges of the island and choose its center to construct their buildings. As shown in the following map

Map source :Rare Books and Special Collections Library; the American University in Cairo

Island connection and secession

Among the effects of the diversion of the Nile River course was the expansion of the riverbed on the eastern side more than the western side, which used to fill at the time of flooding and dry up at the time of low water; hence it was called the Blind Sea which when dries up leaves the Zamalek Island and the western bank connected. This complies with the map of the Geographer Mahmoud Al-Falaki Pasha dated 1873, in which Zamalek Island is shown connected to the western bank (currently the Giza area), and at the time of flood, it transforms into an island again,

Digging and Deepening of the Nile Branch (Blind Sea Branch)

After the river course was diverted, the western branch separating Zamalek and Giza began to narrow and shrink due to river alluvium accumulating and raising the riverbed. As a result, Khedive Ismail ordered its excavation in 1875 AD, as evidenced by its mostly straight and uniformly wide sections visible on maps. However, after the deepening of the Blind Sea course, Zamalek Island became as we know it today.

Map source: Geographic Society Digital collection in CULTNAT-BibAlex

Urban Change

Before Khedive Ismail Role

During Khedive Ismail Role

After Khedive Ismail’s Reign

Land Use Change

Zamalek's Selected Landmarks

Aquarium Grotto Garden Marriott Hotel The Andalusian Garden Qasr al-Nile Bridge The Statue of Saad Zaghloul

Architectural Map

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Building Style

• The island was originally planned as a part of the general plan for the city of Cairo. Haussmann, who was commissioned by Khedive Ismail, developed the plan, and with the help of foreign architects who came to Egypt with him, the European architectural styles prevailing in that period in their countries were brought to Egypt. Moreover, the young Egyptian architects were influenced by these styles, which led to the emergence of new styles that include local features.

• At the beginning of the twentieth century, the term “Neo” appeared, added to the names of the architectural styles that were used to design the buildings of Zamalek. The term refers to the renewal of the old classical architectural styles, resulting in the revivalist styles, which were defined by a contemporary feel relative with the period in which they appeared.

• Such as Neo-renaissance: the Italian Renaissance is a movement that began in Italy in the early 15th century as a break in the continuous European gothic architecture, reverted to classical architectural forms, with gothic methods of construction. Examples of neo-renaissance architecture in Zamalek date back to the 1890s until the 1920s. Some of these buildings display the influence of neo-baroque architecture, while a larger number were inspired by Italian palatial architecture.

Neo-baroque: was an architectural style of the late 19th century. The term is used to describe structures and architectural sculptures, which display important aspects of the Baroque style, but do not belong to the original Baroque period.

Neo-classical: Foreign architects introduced the neo-classical style in architecture in Zamalek, as early as the 1910s, through to the 1940s. A number of neo-classical buildings in the Zamalek display an Art Deco influence, some have Art Nouveau designs, while others used innovative neo-classical architecture with borrowed pharaonic elements.

Art Deco: Although the crowning achievements of Art Deco architecture did not occur in Europe but in the United States, European Art Deco is more common in Egypt. The 1910s through to the 1930s witnessed a diversity of Art Deco architecture in Zamalek, as architects, foreigners, or Egyptians, who were trained at Paris's École des Beaux Arts used Art Deco expressions in their designs.

Neo-islamic: Twentieth-century Islamic architecture in Zamalek was mostly prevalent in buildings of public use (an institute, a ministry, a train station, a hospital, a cinema, and others). Islamic architecture also influenced the Mediterranean architecture in Egypt.

Mediterranean: An oriental influence has prevailed in the Mediterranean architecture of Zamalek. Since the turn of the century, the use of Islamic features has been extensive in a large number of buildings.

Eclectic: Eclecticism is a 19th and 20th-century architectural style in which a single piece of work incorporates a mixture of elements from previous historical styles to create something new and original.

Modern: The modern style has appeared since the 1940s to the present, and it is the most common building style worldwide. Modernist buildings are generally simple in design and lack any applied ornaments. After 1960 modernism began to play more freely with shapes and structures producing a wider variety of designs including cylindrical buildings, sloping roofs, and unusual shapes.

Pre-modern: The Pre-modern style appeared from 1930 to 1955, it represented the early stages of the modern style. Buildings in this genre frequently have streamlined shapes or façade designs, and are very often broken into district masses or wings with courtyards or open corners. Common features include limestone or brick facades, stone framing around entrances, smooth stone columns, rounded buildings, or window edges. Windows are frequently arranged in strong horizontal bands or are punched into the façade at regular intervals.

Neo-gothic: The Noe-gothic style appeared from 1905 to 1930. It is a revival of Gothic architecture, the dominant style of medieval architecture in Western Europe. Building shapes and details have a strong vertical emphasis, with sharply pointed arches and finals. The Neo-gothic draws inspiration from the religious and secular buildings of the Middle Ages.

• Obvious Western influences were incorporated in the buildings designed in the Islamic style, which were designed by the Orientalists.

• The revivalist styles occuring side by side have weaved the distinct architectural and urban fabric of Zamalek Island.

• In order to complete this colourful architectural picture and make it more beautiful, mosaics were used in the architecture of many buildings in the Zamalek district, to form a unique architectural mixture that creatively merges Western and Eastern styles.

Decades

Ismail began implementing his plans of re-planning Cairo in the year 1869 and issued an order on May 6, 1869 to the Public Works Authority to prepare the necessary measurements for opening some streets, lighting them, and extending the surrounding areas.

Ismail planned Zamalek Island to be a resort in Cairo for his family, so he built the Giezira Palace and established lush gardens. He also established Qasr al-Nil Bridge and the Blind Sea Bridge to connect the island to the eastern and western mainland of Cairo. Moreover, he prevented building permanent establishments on the island throughout his reign (1863-1879). Afterwards, Khedive Tawfiq allowed the princes and nobles to build their palaces after assuming power (1879-1892), succeeding his father.

After the bankruptcy of Khedive Ismail, the sale of his property, and the commencement of the British occupation, European funds, especially the British, flocked to Egypt, foreign investments began to increase, thus the population increased, and the need for real estate companies appeared at the beginning of the twentieth century. The urban sprawl began on the island of Zamalek, where at the time, it was described as a healthy suburb because it contained large green spaces, and it became a magnet for foreigners and the nobles of society.

To begin a new architectural era in the history of the island of Zamalek, the lush gardens gradually receded and urbanization spreads throughout the island.

The Cultural and Natural Heritage Documentation Center has started a project to document the heritage buildings in the Zamalek region since 2003, which resulted in the documentation of a group of distinguished buildings that were divided into time periods according to the date of their construction:
Pre-1900 Buildings
From 1900 to 1909
From 1910 to 1919
From 1920 to 1929
From 1930 to 1939
After 1939

Architects of Zamalek

The Zamalek Island was planned as part of the general plan of Cairo that was originally developed by Haussmann, who was commissioned by Khedive Ismail.

Hussmann came to Egypt with a wide group of foreign architects, who assisted him in achieving his plans of developing Cairo. Those architects chose the architectural styles used back in their hometowns. As a result, the city of Cairo was of European style with local influences.

The works conducted during Cairo development, attracted the foreign money from Europe and that was an attraction of foreigners to come to Egypt. The increasing of foreign population lead to boosting the development and a group of foreign architects were among this population.

The urbanization of Cairo city attracted numerous foreign architects including a wide variety of nationalities. Italian architects were among the most important contributors of the urbanization process. Mario Rossi was one of those Italian architects; he graduated from L'Accademia di Belle Arti de Roma, in 1917. He worked as a Chief architect at the Egyptian Ministry of Awqaf. Another Italian architect was Ernesto Verucci who graduated from L'Accademia di Belle Arti di Modena in Italy. He worked as the Chief architect of the royal palaces in Egypt. As well as Henri Fresco whose work is still evident in Zamalek.

In addition, German architects had a role in the urbanization, like Michel Liberman. The French architects too had their share in the development like John Price, Max Edrei and Georges Parq. Moreover, some architects were from Austria, such as the architect Luigi Manham who was born in 1869. Others were from Turkey, such as Garo Balyan who was born in Istanbul, in 1872. He worked as an architect in the Ministry of Public Works and the Royal Court. Ernest Jaspar was a Belgium architect who had participated in the development process. Yet many other architects have participated in the urban development such as Curel Del Russo, Ernest Richmond, Georges Calligopoulo, Guido Gauassi, and Raoul Brandon have contributed.

The European architectural styles prevailing in that period in Europe were brought to Egypt by the foreign architects and the young Egyptian and Arab architects who were influenced by them. Thus, the term “Neo” emerged which was added to the names of the classical architectural styles to refer to their renewal. Consequently, the revivalist styles have materialized which were characterized by a modern touch commensurate with the period in which they appeared.

We cannot help but mention the Egyptian and Arab architects of the early twentieth century who were pioneers in the field of architecture. Their work is evident in Cairo districts showing the harmony of using the European styles modified with Islamic and local architectural elements. They have designed remarkable buildings that together formed the soul of Zamalek.

Among the pioneering Egyptian architects were Mahmoud Riad, and Sayed Karim. Also Moustafa Fahmy who was born in 1886. He graduated from L'ecole Nationale Superieure Des Beaux Arts and worked as Chief Architect of the Ministry of Public Works. Ramsis Wissa Wassef who was born in 1911 and died in 1974. He was an Egyptian architect and Professor at the architecture department at the College of Fine Arts in Cairo University and the founder of the Ramses Wissa Wassef Art Centre. And Ali Labib Gabr who was once a Dean of the School of Architecture, Cairo University.

And from Lebanon, Albert Zananiri and Antoine Selim Nahas who was born in Cairo, in 1901. He graduated from L'Ecole Centrale des Arts et Manufactures in Paris and worked as Chief Architect for the Ministry of Education. He also obtained a professorship at Fouad (Cairo) University's, faculty of Fine Arts (Beaux Arts). Nahas died in Beirut on 15 November 1966.

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